7 September 2010
Home DSL installation combined with wireless home network... Best answer on the web
1. I am going the DSL route vs. cable. DSL is much more suited to my situation. If there are any dramatic reasons why cable would be far superior to DSL please let me know, although logistically cable would much more difficult. I have already checked with my local phone carrier (Verizon) and they have confirmed that DSL is available on one of my current phone lines (at an UL rate of 128K and a DL rate of 768K);
2. Advice on a firewall. I have tried using Zonealarm on one of my laptops and I have been confused as to which programs I should allow to have access to the internet. Any advice on alternative software? Is Zonealarm really the best firewall? If so, what is the best way to learn to use it correctly (i.e. which programs should I allow to have access to the internet?)
3. Hardware concerns. I have the following PC's I would like to link to the wireless network:
--A desktop with an ethernet port (running XP);
--a laptop with built-in 10/100 Ethernet and integrated Wireless LAN 802.11a/b connections (NEC Versa Litepad running XP);
--another notebook running XP with no current wireless capacity.
--an older desktop running Windows 98. If setting up this pc to access the network is difficult (given the age of the machine and operating system), I would consider skipping it.
Please recommend hardware needed to set set up the wireless network. I would also like a brief explanation as to the difficulty of setting up the system as well as suggestions on where to buy the equipment if available.
4. Finally, any advice on setup/maintenance of the system. Are there other things (either software or hardware) that I need to buy that I have not listed here? Is a firewall a necessity? What are the advantages/disadvantages of using my current landline RBOC (Verizon) vs. other 3rd party DSL providers? Do different providers mean different service levels/UL-DL speeds/prices? If so, what other 3rd-party providers would you suggest and why (this is for the near Boston suburbs...area code 781).
Thanks...
Thank you for your request for advice on upgrading from dial-up to broadband, and on deploying a wireless network in your home. I hope that you find the following information of use.
I will arrange this Answer in line with the points in your Question:
1. Choice of broadband technology - DSL vs. cable
a. technical advantages of each
b. advice on providers
2. Firewall advice
3. Hardware considerations
4. Setup/maintenance advice
===================================
1. Choosing a Broadband Solution
--------------------------------
You have already made the easiest decision, namely to upgrade from dial-up to broadband. However, as you already sense, the choice of a broadband provider is a difficult one.
The leading technologies for residential broadband service are digital subscriber lines (DSL) and data-over-cable service (we'll just call it cable here), DSL being delivered using a new or existing telephone line and cable being delivered over a new or existing cable TV line. The availability of each depends solely on the network infrastructure of the local telephone company and local cable company. Reasons why either service may not be available range from a lack of either telephone or cable service to the residence at all, all the way to a lack of data service to the service providers local facility (the 'central office' for the telephone company, the segment substation for cable).
For your reference, other technologies available in some parts of the world include fibre-optic cabling to the home, wireless, and satellite.
Choosing between DSL and cable comes down to a few parameters that are specific to your situation, which I shall now discuss.
DISTANCE FROM SERVICE PROVIDER FACILITY
This affects DSL more than cable, and affects each differently. For DSL, the nature of the technology means that, the further away you are from the central office (CO) or remote terminal (RT, used in newer suburban developments), the lower the bandwidth that will be available to you. Think of this as being similar to water pressure from a city main; the farther you are from the source, the lower the pressure you receive. The advantage of DSL is that you are the only user of your DSL line. So, continuing on the water pressure analogy, you will get whatever pressure that it is possible to deliver down that pipe, there won't be anyone tapping off pressure midway down the line.
For cable, the reverse is true. The actual bandwidth available to you is less dependent on any distance parameter, but more dependent on the number of other cable Internet users there are on the same segment as you. Here is where distance does play a role; in some suburban areas, and for most multi-dwelling buildings, there are a lot of cable customers all hanging off the same segment/loop of cable. If a large number of them are also subscribed to cable Internet, then they all must share the total available bandwidth. At peak times (such as after school, when all the kids in the area go home and start downloading MP3's, sending instant messages, and playing online games), this can slow the cable Internet experience down to a crawl, just like a busy freeway at rush hour. Given your description of your neighbourhood, Comcast may have simply extended the segment serving that new development over to your area, so you potentially would be sharing your service with 100 other families.
EASE OF OBTAINING SERVICE
You've mentioned that you currently have satellite TV, and that cable service was not available in your area when you first moved in. That most likely means that Comcast would need to run cable to your home in order to provide the service, something that they most likely would charge you for. If their cable is simply strung along poles running down your street, then at least the installation would be simple to get to the outside of your home; if there are no poles on your street, then that means their cable is running underground, and would require a trench be dug on your property to get to your home. The online check simply indicates if your street address is 'passed' by a cable run, it unfortunately does not indicate if the cable runs right to your house already.
In addition to this, you would be looking at the need to install at least one cable jack in the house to accommodate the data service. Again, additional cost.
Since Verizon says that they can deliver 128kbps up/728 kbps down service, that already implies that you are at some distance from their CO. They would have offered you 128/1.5M service if you were within 12,000 ft (as the telephone line crawls) of their location. This isn't the whole story, though. Depending on the quality and complexity of the telephone wiring in your house, you may or may not be able to get anywhere close to the 128/728 service level. For example, if you have many extensions in the house, and if you go with the self-install kit, you will need to install a device called a Z-filter on each of those extensions. If there is any marginal wiring in the house, or of one of the Z-filters is not within its performance specification, then the DSL modem will automatically lower its performance to compensate for the interference. Since you mention that you have more than one phone line, you should also note that the Z-filters normally supplied by most DSL service providers filter only the middle pins, or 'Line 1', of a standard two-line phone jack. Therefore, there may be a need to do some simple rewiring depending on how your phone lines are hooked up.
AVAILABLE PROVIDERS
When it comes to DSL, the thing to note is that regardless of who your Internet Service Provider is, the actual physical connection between your home and the Internet Service Provider belongs to your local telephone company. In this case, Verizon. Beyond the phone line itself and the voice/data splitter in the phone company's facility, there is also a data network (ATM, or asynchronous transfer mode network) between that facility and the actual connection to the Internet. That connection can be Verizon's, or a 3rd party's, and it is that connection that actually enables your Internet service (as well as e-mail, etc.).
Since this is the first time that you are getting DSL service to your home, the majority of issues that can arise will have to do with the quality of that physical connection. So, the general advice I would give anyone in your situation is to start with the local phone company as the service provider, ensure that DSL can be successfully delivered over your phone line, then shop around around for other service providers to take over the Internet service part.
For cable, the situation is similar; Comcast will always be the party responsible for the physical connection, and there may or may not be a choice available to you for a 3rd party to 'own' the connection between the Comcast network and the Internet.
RECOMMENDATION
In your situation, since you do not already have cable service in your home, the DSL option is basically the only option to consider. Even if the Comcast service may provide superior peak bandwidths, it is highly likely that the service will be shared with many other parties, possibly even the elementary school across the street. The additional cost per month, along with the installation costs, will make the cable option unaffordable.
For your initial DSL connection, stick with Verizon so that there is only one 'throat to choke' if tweaking is needed to get your connection working optimally. Then, after your service is stable, you can consider going with a different service provider based purely on the economics of their offers.
OTHER POINTS TO CONSIDER
As I previously mentioned, the DSL experience will depend greatly on the quality of the telephone wiring in your home. Therefore, when you first start installing the service using their self-install kit, I highly recommend that you start by unplugging every telephone that is connected to that particular phone line. That will reduce the possibility of a bad phone causing noise on the line and disrupting the DSL connection. Once you have established a connection, go to:
http://bos.speakeasy.net
(if not available, go to http://www.dslreports.com/stest and select a different server)
and run the Bandwidth Speed Test that you will find there. If possible, run the test several times over a reasonable period of time, then record the average results for later comparison. Install the Z-filters and plug the phones back in. After you are done, run the speed test again. If the results are noticeably different from the original results, there is a possibility that there is either a bad Z-filter, or a bad phone. The best way to trace this is to unplug a phone, and retest; repeat until the bad phone is found.
An alternative to consider is to dedicate a single phone jack as the one through which the DSL service will be delivered, and to have a knowledgeable person do some simple rewiring in the junction box where all of the phone lines in the house connect to the telephone company's lines. The line for the designated phone jack gets connected directly to the line with the DSL service. All other phone jacks that need to connect to that line must be connected first to a different type of filter referred to as a POTS splitter, and the splitter is in turn connected to the phone line. If this is something you wish to learn more about, please ask for clarification and I will provide it.
A final point to consider is the situation where you may have an alarm system in the house that uses the phone line to connect to a monitoring service. If the line that the alarm system uses is the same line that the DSL will be delivered over, then it is necessary to install a filter for the alarm's built-in analog modem as well. Since many alarm systems are designed so that they 'take over' the phone line when tripped, this actually entails designating a phone jack as the DSL jack as mentioned above, and installing the POTS splitter. It sounds more difficult than it actually is, the only complication is that many alarm monitoring companies will insist that their technician be called out (and paid) to do this in order to maintain their monitoring service's integrity. In my own home, I did this myself, but I am also highly experienced in working with electronics and telephone systems.
-----------------------------
For more information on this:
DSL:
xDSL- Webopedia.com
http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/x/xDSL.html
How DSL Works - Verizon Online
http://www22.verizon.com/forhomedsl/channels/dsl/how+dsl+works.asp
How does DSL Work? - Bolt Home Systems
http://www.bolthomesystems.com/networking/dsl_work.htm
DSL FAQ - Broadband Reports
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/faq
CABLE:
DOCSIS - Webopedia.com
http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/D/DOCSIS.html
TechTV: The Path to Cable Internet
http://www.techtv.com/screensavers/broadband/story/0,24330,3359373,00.html
Cable Modems and Wiring Issues - Broadband Reports
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/cabletech
GENERAL:
How Internet Infrastructure Works - Howstuffworks.com
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/internet-infrastructure.htm
=============================
2. Firewall Advice
------------------
I am glad that you have already experimented with using a firewall program on one of your laptops, as that is one of the most important security steps you can take. The free version of Zone Alarm is actually what I personally use, and is the most user friendly of all of the firewall programs available. The basic rule to follow with Zone Alarm is, if when you start up a program, you receive a prompt asking if you will permit it to access either the local network or the Internet, then you are usually safe in saying Yes (and optionally checking the box to have ZA remember your instructions for the next time you start up the service). If, however, you receive a request when you have not started up a program, then you should be somewhat concerned. Remember that services such as Windows Update or many anti-virus programs run in the background, and occasionally will access the Internet to check for updates using the name 'Services And Controller App'. However, if you do not recognize the name of the program, simply say 'No', but do not check the checkbox. If later on you find that something that should be working, isn't, then chances are it is because it cannot access the Internet, and you will know what program that last cryptic name belongs to.
Since you are now considering deploying a home network, then you will be gaining an additional layer of protection through the hardware firewall that will be built into the DSL gateway router that I will talk to in greater detail in the next section.
Even with the hardware firewall in place, you should still deploy the free version of Zone Alarm on your other computers. This is to provide some protection against the threat of a virus or worm somehow getting into one of your computers (through, for example, an e-mail attachment), and infecting the other PCs in your house.
I will discuss the hardware firewall in the following sections. Ultimately, the best advice I can give you here is to learn more about what the firewall does for you. The best places to start are;
How Firewalls Work - Howstuffworks.com
http://www.howstuffworks.com/firewall.htm
Gibson Research Corp - ShieldsUP!
http://www.grc.com/default.htm (then scroll down to 'ShieldsUP!')
---------------------------
For more information on this:
ZoneAlarm free download
http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/products/znalm/freeDownload.jsp?lid=zadb_zadown
Agnitum Outpost Firewall - free version
http://www.agnitum.com/download/outpost1.html
=============================
3. Wireless Home Networking
---------------------------
Given your description of your home, a wireless network is indeed the best option for you. Your level of success in deploying this network will depend on several factors, such as the type of construction (wood, brick, metal), the layout, and the location chosen for the wireless base station.
You described your home as a two-storey w/attic single family dwelling. You also mentioned that one PC (the W98 one) is in the attic. Naturally, the two laptops are mobile, and the desktop running XP is mostly likely your 'main' PC and is most likely located in a den or spare bedroom. If not, simply modify my advice to suit.
Your first consideration will be in choosing a wireless-enabled DSL router. Verizon will be providing you with a DSL modem. The DSL router will be able to emulate a PC, and work with the DSL modem to initiate and maintain the DSL connection regardless of the state of the PCs in the house. That way, you do not need to remember to leave any of the PCs turned on just so that the others can continue to access the Internet.
My high level recommendation for this is to stick with a single brand for any equipment you need to purchase. With the exception of the Litepad, none of the other PCs have wireless equipment. I would recommend that the DSL router be located by the desktop PC, so that you can simply connect that PC to the router using an Ethernet cable and save some money.
For the other PCs (the other laptop, and the attic machine), you will need to buy wireless adapters at the same time as you buy the wireless DSL router. If the laptop has a free PCMCIA slot, then you will need to buy a PCMCIA wireless adapter. For the W98 machine, you can purchase either a PCI wireless adapter that is installed in a free PCI slot inside the PC, or if the machine has a free USB port, you can go with a USB wireless adapter instead.
The standard that I will recommend you go with right now is the 802.11b standard, better known by the Wi-Fi mark. Note that 802.11b does not equal Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi is the mark used to indicate that a wireless device using the 802.11b standard has been tested by the Wi-Fi Alliance, an industry consortium focused on ensuring compatibility between equipment. The reason I recommend this standard, versus the newer 802.11g standard, is two-fold. First, your Litepad is already equipped with an 802.11a/b adapter, so using it with an 802.11g base station would force the base station to implement it's backward compatibility capabilities. For some units, this can reduce the overall performance of the unit. The second reason is that the main reason in putting this home network in place is to share the Internet connection; since the Internet connection itself will have at most 768kbps download speed, the maximum 11Mbps/minimum 1Mbps throughput of 802.11b is more than adequate. The price points for 802.11b equipment has also dropped to rediculously low levels (I half expect to see 802.11b adapters being distributed in cereal boxes soon). However, if you come across a great deal on 802.11g equipment, then go right ahead and buy it instead, as the 802.11g standard requires that 802.11g equipment be backward compatible with 802.11b equipment.
You can buy Wi-Fi equipment at most major home electronics stores such as Best Buy or Circuit City. As for brands, I am going to play it safe and recommend the acknowledged leader in home networking equipment, Linksys.
For the wireless DSL router, I recommend the Linksys W11S4PC11, a kit that contains a Linksys BEFW11S4 wireless 4-port broadband router and a PCMCIA adapter for the other laptop. For the W98 PC, look for either the WUSB11 USB adapter, or the WMP11 PCI adapter. If you have a choice, go for the USB unit. Since the computer is located in the attic, it will have the most difficult time with acquiring and maintaining the wireless connection. With the USB unit, you will have the flexibility to move the adapter around to try to optimize the signal, whereas the options with the PCI version are more limited.
I also suggest picking up an Ethernet cable to go between the desktop PC and the DSL router.
You can find all of these at BestBuy.com:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat01028&type=category
(Linksys equipment starts on page 3 of the search results)
Setting up the wireless network should be relatively simple, if you follow these steps:
1. Buy the wireless equipment before you attempt to install your DSL connection.
2. Follow the Verizon instructions in the self-install kit to set up the DSL connection on your desktop PC (note that the software you install is temporary, you will be uninstalling it after the router has been installed).
3. After confirming that you are able to use the DSL connection (and checking out your speed using the links I provided in section 1), shut down your computer.
4. Unpack and set up the Linksys router, following the instructions in its Quick Start guide to hook it up between your PC and the DSL modem.
5. After following the Quick Start instructions for a PPPoE type of DSL connection, you should be able to surf the Web from the desktop PC. If you have not already done so, CHANGE THE ADMIN PASSWORD FOR THE ROUTER.
6. Again following the Linksys Quick Start instructions, install the Linksys PCMCIA adapter in the other laptop. NOTE: At this point, you need to decide on a 'name' for your home network, to replace the default 'linksys' SSID. I suggest you choose something that is NOT easily identifiable to you or your home, yet is easy for you to remember as you will need to type it a few more times before we are done here. Keep it under eight characters (example: GHOST324). You will need to configure this on the router from the desktop PC, and configure it on the laptop through the PCMCIA adapter's setup wizard.
7. At this point, you will also need to set up the WEP key for security. Start with a 64-bit key, as that is the only level supported by the actual 802.11b standard. This will help reduce the possibility of problems cropping up with the Litepad later. To create the key, you can use the wizard's 'passphrase' option (where you type in a word, and it uses it to create the key). While that will work for any of the Linksys branded equipment, it will not work for the NEC's own adapter. For that computer, you will need to write down the key that is generated by the wizard (the easiest one to see is the one for the Linksys router itself), and manually key it in for the NEC. On the XP machines, XP's own wireless user interface will be the preferred interface. FOr the W98 machine, you will need to use the Linksys software that comes with the wireless adapter.
8. Speaking of the W98 machine, this is the one that may require the most experimentation. Therefore, you may want to leave it uninstalled for the first week, while you sort out any bugs with the DSL connection and the wireless connection for the laptops. Only after you are confident that the DSL connection and the wireless network are working, should you install the wireless adapter on the W98 machine.
The Linksys router uses a technique known as Network Address Translation to allow your multiple PCs, each assigned a local IP address, to all use the single Internet connection (and the single IP address assigned by Verizon's dynamic IP server). This NAT technique also creates an effective firewall against Internet based threats, as the router will prevent any unsolicited traffic from reaching your PCs. However, this technique may also cause some problems for any instant messaging or file-sharing programs used on the PCs. There are instructions in the Linksys user guide for configuring the router to allow these types of software to be used safely.
------------------------
For more information on this:
Linksys: Education
http://www.linksys.com/edu/
Microsoft Broadband Networking Hardware - Wireless 802.11b
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/broadbandnetworking/03_choose.aspx?class=WirelessB
ExtremeTech.com : Go Wireless Part II:Unwiring It Up
http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,3973,1335949,00.asp
==================================
4. Setup/maintenance advice
---------------------------
Even after you have successfully set up your wireless home network, you will want to periodically check up on it to make sure you are still in control. The Linksys router maintains a log showing which machines have connected to it through both the wired ports and the wireless network. If you do not recognize a machine, then your security has been compromised. The easiest way to fix this is to change the WEP key. You may want to do this periodically anyway, as a good security practice.
The performance of the wireless network will depend greatly on sources of radio interference in and around your home. Wireless networks operate in the same frequency range, 2.4 GHz, as some cordless phones and most microwave ovens. It is therefore good practice to either not use 2.4GHz phones, or at least move their base stations away from the wireless router. Try to visualize a straight line between the wireless router and the other wireless computers, and see if you can find any other sources of interference that would impact the connection (such as concrete walls with rebar, metal heating ducts, refrigerators, etc.)
If you find that your wireless signal strength is weak in areas of the house where you want to use the laptops (such as a sundeck), try moving the base station so that it is clear of any immediate obstructions. If possible, place it on top of a wooden bookshelf so that its antenna is well above your PC monitor.
Finally, once your DSL connection is working, remember to keep an eye out for any good 3rd party ISP deals. While you will incur some brief headaches returning the Verizon equipment and reinstalling the new equipment provided by the new ISP, the monthly cost savings may well justify the pain.
---------------------------
I hope that you have found this Answer to be helpful. Please let me know if you would like any clarifications, using the Request Clarification button.
Thanks, and good luck!
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
Please start from the beginning of the process described above in the original posts to set the WEP key in the laptop again. That is the most likely cause of the problem.
To use the printers over the network (once your wireless connection is fully functional again), you need to activate printer sharing (which you have already done), then on the computer where the printer is installed, do the following:
a. Go to Start>Control Panel>Printers
b. Right-click on the printer's icon, and select Sharing...
c. Change the setting to "Share this printer", and give it a useful name, then click OK d. In the other PCs, start up Windows Explorer
e. Go to My Network Places -> Microsoft Windows Network -> (your network) -> (the host PC) f. You should see your printer on the right-hand pane, right click on it and select Connect... g. You most likely will need to supply the driver disk at this point for the Win98 machine; the WinXP machine should automatically receive its driver from the host PC
Please let me know how this goes!
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
In your instructions on sharing a printer with the network, you state "This
requires that you set up the "Client for Microsoft Networks" on each
of the computers, and turn on "File and Printer Sharing".
One clarification...how do I set up the "client for microsoft networks?"
I know it has been a long time and if you want me to pay some more after all this time, please let me know.
Thanks...
Cole
1. I do not currently have cable service to my home. When we moved in cable was not available to our neighborhood. I THINK it is now available, but I am not sure. I do not think the home is pre-wired for cable (thus my comments that I believe DSL is more realistic from a logistical standpoint); I THINK the local cable service is Comcast, but I am not certain. Note that I currently get my video feed via satelite so if I did go cable it would be for data access only.
2. Neighborhood is relatively sparse...4 homes on our street all on a couple of acres of land apiece. I do not know if any of our neighbors currently have cable data or video access. We are across the street from an elementary school (I do not know where their broadband comes from). The nearest large neighborhood is about a quarter of a mile away and is relatively dense (80-100 homes on 1/2 acre plots. My home is a 2 story single family home (actually 3 stories since one of the computers is in the attic--the older one with the Windows 98 operating system.)
3. I do use the computer somewhat for work, but it is generally word processing and light spreadsheet work. I use a couple of web services that would benefit from broadband access for work currently. If/when I have broadband available, I might increase the amount of work-oriented tasks I do on the computer.
Finally, since originally posting I did some further detective work and it looks like Covad and Earthlink (and perhaps others) also provide DSL service. I assume that the 3rd party companies simply use the Verizon backbone to provide the service, but I am no expert here. Clearly, there are various pricing plans and features of the different products, and I would appreciate any guidance you could give (assuming you convince me that DSL makes more sense than cable) on what plan or features would be useful.
Thanks...
I am working on an Answer for you, but I have a couple of clarification requests that I hope you can reply to.
1. Do you currently have cable television service to your home? If not, is your home pre-wired for cable television, including the cable company's cable to the home?
2. How densely populated is your neighbourhood? How far away are your neighbours? What type of home do you have (ex. single story bungalow/rancher, two-bedroom condo unit in a 20 storey building, that sort of description)?
3. Do you use your home Internet connection for work purposes as well as personal use? If so, please describe how you use it for work purposes.
Thanks,
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
I am in the midst of setting things up.
Under your answer #3 Part 5., you say "After following the Quick Start instructions for a PPPoE type of DSL connection, you should be able to surf the Web from the desktop PC. If you have not already done so, CHANGE THE ADMIN PASSWORD FOR THE ROUTER."
Question: How do I change the ADMIN password for the router?
Good luck,
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
First...again...thanks so much...
I have made so much progress...BUT!
I have fixed the communication links with the wireless pc's and can now access the internet again (whew!).
I followed your directions and I was able to set everything up. However, when I try to print a test, I am getting an error and it will not print. It appears that the item transfers o.k. to the base machine (I can see the print job on the main machine), but when it goes to print is gives a print error and will not make it to the printer.
If you know an easy solution to this, I am all ears. If not, I'll just go ahead and lug my laptop over to the prrinter and reconnect the cables.
Thanks again for all of your time.
Colan
Now I've really screwed something up.
While trying to set up the printers...I now cannot access the internet via the wireless (laptop) computer. The wireless connection still says that it is connected, but I cannot get on the net. I ran the network setup wizard on both my main PC and the laptop so that I could get them to recognize the printer. I clicked on "share Printer" on both of them, but now I cannot print either.
HELP!!!
To set up the Client for Microsoft Networks in Windows 98, please follow the instructions here:
http://www.ae.utexas.edu/lrc/ms_client.html
For Windows XP, the client is usually installed already by default. If not, then follow this:
http://helpdesk.uvic.ca/hownote/2001/ht2001041.html
For File and Printer Sharing in XP:
http://helpdesk.uvic.ca/hownote/2001/ht2001042.html
And for Windows 98:
http://helpdesk.uvic.ca/hownote/1999/ht99032.html
That should take care of things for you.
Regards,
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
RE printing on a network...under LAN properties on the main computer with the printer attached, I have client for MS networks checked as well as file and printer sharing for MS networks.
However...How do I actually print from the other computer? How do I know it is going to the network printer?
Sorry for the incredibly naive questions...thanks...
Nonetheless, your answer was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much.
I'm glad to hear that you've started to set up your wireless network!
To answer your clarification requests:
ADMIN PASSWORD
--------------
Assuming you purchased the Linksys BEFW11S4 I suggested, the admin password is changed by accessing the router's configuration pages, and selecting the 'Password' tab. The instructions on how to do this can be found on pages 21-26 of the User Guide found at:
ftp://ftp.linksys.com/pdf/befw11s4_v4_ug.pdf
(this should be the same as the paper version you received with the router)
WEP SECURITY SETUP
------------------
Again, assuming you purchased the Linksys router, please read the following Linksys support page a couple of times to familiarize yourself with the location of the various pages you need to access, then please do the following:
read
http://www.linksys.com/support/top10faqs/BEFw11s4/Setting%20up%20and%20troubleshooting%20WEP%20encryption%20on%20a%20BEFW11S4.asp
and read
http://www.linksys.com/Products/befw11s4_sec_add.pdf
then
1. First, log into your router (per the instructions in the Linksys page) and go to the WEP Key Setting window;
2. Because you have a mixed environment (ie. some computers using XP, some using the Linksys client software to control the wireless adapter), you must MANUALLY enter the WEP key. Because of the length of the WEP key, and given the low probability of a hacker driving up to your house and sitting there for a few hours to hack your network without you noticing him or her, I suggest you use a 64-bit key. As this key is entered using hexadecimal notation, and a 64-bit key consists of 10 hexadecimal characters, I suggest you use something that you can easily remember, but that is not easily associated with you or your house. One such thing would be something similar to the phone number of a friend, preferably one located in a different area code from you (example, '8002255288' if your friend happens to be AT&T).
3. After you have picked your WEP key (ie., your friend's phone number) select the 64-bit key option in the router, and enter the key in the field for the key and apply the changes.
4. In the computers with a wireless adapter (such as the NEC laptop running XP), you also need to set the WEP key. For the XP laptop, you set this by following the instructions on pages 2-3 of the second Linksys document I mentioned above, http://www.linksys.com/Products/befw11s4_sec_add.pdf , taking note of the fact that I am telling you to use a 64-bit key (ie. 10 characters) instead of the 26-character approach mentioned in the document. The reason for this is to try to maximize the likelihood that the Wi-Fi adapter built into the NEC will work with the Linksys; not all manufacturers' products play well together at the 128-bit setting (aside: 128-bit = 104 bit + 24 bits of admin overhead).
5. For the non-XP computer, you would set up the WEP key using the Linksys client software, either during the setup wizard (which you can re-run even if you have already installed the software previously), or by access the client software directly per the following:
http://kb.linksys.com/cgi-bin/om_isapi.dll?infobase=linksysrev.nfo&record={4AB}&softpage=IKW_ENU_JDocView
Again, please remember that you are not using a passphrase, you are entering the WEP key directly.
Additional Clarifications
-------------------------
I am happy to field additional clarifications that you may require. However, I must inform you that I will be offline from January 19th until about January 24th, and therefore will not be able to respond to any further requests until then. If you run into a situation where you are unsure how to proceed, first consider visiting the Linksys support site at:
http://www.linksys.com/support/default.asp
and click on the Knowledge Base link. Here, you will find the answers to frequently asked questions about any of the Linksys equipment (similar to the links I've provided above). While it is not a substitute for asking a direct question of an experienced person, it's probably the next best thing.
As well, if all else fails, you may consider posting a question to Google Answers, where another Researcher should be able to help you. If you do this, please reference this question by including the following link in your Question, so that the Researcher can be fully aware of your situation:
http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=292365
Please let me know how this goes, and my apologies for the inconvenience!
Regards,
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
Could you please further explain the WEP security key process. I am not exactly sure how to do this on the router or the other machines. What software to I use to set the Key?
Thanks for the point on the printers. Leaving the base unit on should not be a problem. When I get to that point in the setup I may come back and ask for more details just in case I don't get it right.
Again, thanks.
The base station I suggested, the Linksys BEFW11S4, does not have built-in support for a 'print server'. If you are looking for a print server function, then your options become a lot more limited. It depends a lot on your printer, actually, as most of the routers with print server support can only support a parallel port printer.
If your printer is a USB printer, then two second-tier manufacturers, SMC and NetGear, each make a wireless DSL router with USB printer support. Please note, though, that when these manufacturers claim USB printer support, what they really mean is that you get a driver that you install on each of your computers that allows them to create a virtual USB port with a 'tunnel' through the network to their printer server. When it works, it works well. When it doesn't work, it's a nightmare to troubleshoot. As well, all of these units operate with the newer 802.11g standard, which means that they cost more than a 802.11b solution even if you look past the additional cost for the print server capability.
The method I usually recommend, and the method that most likely matches your current situation, is for the printer to remain directly connected to the desktop PC running XP, and for that printer to be shared in the local network to all of the other machines. This requires that you set up the "Client for Microsoft Networks" on each of the computers, and turn on "File and Printer Sharing". The downside to this is that the desktop PC must be on whenever someone needs to print. If you usually leave the desktop PC on anyway, that isn't an issue. If not, then it will be necessary to investigate alternatives to the base station I originally recommended.
Regards,
aht-ga
Google Answers Researcher
Will the set-up as you have described allow me to print remotely by using the wireless network and a printer hooked up to the base unit?
#If you have any other info about this subject , Please add it free.# |